Sangihe-Talaud Archipelago: Dive into “ Ring of Fire “
Sangihe Talaut is Indonesia's most northerly
province, a region with no white inhabitants, no package tourists
or resorts and can only be reached on an "explorer tour".
This report by Herbert Frei tells of an isolated region new
to the dive scene which will remain something special for
a long time.
Sangihe Talaut with its countless islands and
bizarre rock formations is also called the "Ring of fire"
because of the many volcanos which are still active. Trips
to this part of Indonesia can only be described as adventure
tours to the end of the world. Divers who are not deterred
by the long journey and want to discover the unknown are rewarded
with water temperatures of up to 30° and 60 metres
visibility. The underwater world is pristine –
gigantic sponges are over 100 years old, the corals have never
seen divers before. No comparison with the loud and hectic
Caribbean or the busy reefs in the Red Sea. "Liburan"
is the only dive ship here and offers a unique experience
: isolation and adventure.
Stranger in a nameless world Explorer trips
are not designed for people who want everything perfectly
organised, who need a doctor after a moskito bite and expect
to be shown exactly the fish they want to see. The dive sites
are new even for the experienced dive guides, so you never
know what to expect on each dive. Even virgin reefs can be
damaged, either from dynamite fishing or severe storms and
currents. Just because a reef is far from the beaten track,
it does not necessarily mean that everything is perfect. After
a week's diving and searching we wanted to give up; then we
tried other places – and were rewarded
with magnificent dive sites. Now Liburan knows where to go,
so that on this trip you only visit premium dive sites. It
took us 3 – 4 dives per day for 3 weeks
to find them; now you can enjoy them in 10 –
14 days. But you still have the chance to be first on many
reefs – there are plenty more waiting to
be discovered. An important factor is your diving experience
– not less than 100 logged dives and the
confidence to dive into the deep blue away from the coast
to visit underwater mountains and plateaus. An explorer trip
is a calculated risk. In an emergency the next airport is
far away, minor illnesses which prevent
diving can lead to a psychological crisis. And also despite
the size of the ship you cannot avoid your fellow passengers.
Natives
With the captain's and the dive guides' permission
it is also possible to visit native villages. For many locals
we were the first whites they had ever seen, certainly the
first Europeans. Many villages have no electricity nor means
of communication. They go fishing in their dugout canoes and
exchange their catch for rice. Fruit and vegetables are hard
to find, mainly coconuts, perhaps a few bananas and papayas
and a form of spinach. Conversation is a problem; they only
speak a local dialect, which luckily 2 dive guides, who were
born here, understand. Communication is generally a problem
in Indonesia – there are roughly 800 different
dialects, which makes the government of the country difficult.
North Sulawesi and Sangihe-Talaut are Christian areas of Indonesia,
so there are no muslim terrorists here. Besides what could
they find to attack ?
Liburan
Liburan is the only to ship to run these explorer
tours. Rudi Ring's old Liburan has been sold and renamed.
The new Liburan ist longer and broader, has more stowage room
and bigger cabins, each with shower, toilet and air conditioning.
A desalination unit garantees permanent fresh water. The Nitrox
compressor was not working during our trip, but does now.
However this is not really necessary as few dive sites are
deeper than 30 metres. The ship is stable even when the sea
is rough and is fast enough to reach remote areas. The new
cook is a professional and the meals in buffet-form are of
a much higher standard than before. Soft drinks and beer are
not included in the price. Liburan represents Indonesian standards,
which are lower than the liveaboards in the Caribbean and
Red Sea. However the daily price including non limit diving
is much cheaper. Total capacity is for 16 divers; however
there should not be more that 14 on board, 12 divers are ideal,
so that photo- and videographers have enough space. That also
means 3 groups with 4 divers which makes supervision underwater
easier. We would really recommend only taking maximal 12 divers
and putting up the price by 5 or 10 Euro per day. The generous-sized
crew of 12 including 3 dive guides is extremely helpful, not
only with the equipment before the dive but also with small
repairs to camera equipment etc. The ship is clean, insects
are very rare. The only cockroach which was found on the railing
was given
a marine burial.
Cameras are a must to capture the many bizarre
things you see on this trip. On the dive deck is a 220 volt
charger for lamps and flash lights and the lower cabins have
2 sockets for 110 and 220 volt. The beds in the deck cabins
should be raised by about 50 cm, so that you can sit comfortably
on them. The northern explorer trip is only possible from
the middle of April to the end of June due to high winds and
waves and strong currents at other times of the year. The
biggest problems in this area are strong
currents, which can sweep you away from the reef or downdrafts,
when you have to fully inflate your jacket to counteract the
pull. The instructions of the dive guides must be obeyed,
solo-diving is forbidden. Decompression dives should be avoided.
Don't forget that the nearest doctor is miles away and drink
a lot of liquid to counteract dehydration. If the weather
forecast is favourable you have the choice of many superb
dive sites. A fuller description will follow in the New Year.
Batu Barang Kecil
Several months ago dive-guide Pontoi found an
unknown species of pygmy
seahorse, which now bear his name. They are minute, half the
size of
the usual red and yellow ones. It is impossible to take a
photograph
of them from the front as they are so narrow. Apparently they
can be
found in yellow, grey, green, blue, braun and black with red
fins.
However without a dive-guide you have absolutely no chance
to find
them.
Biaro
is part of the islands belonging to the "Ring
of fire". Strong
currents, but superb corals and sponges. The west coast is
rocky with
huge gorgonian fans.
Sunggai Lava
Despite a volcano outbreak in the 70's a pristine
coral garden with
enormous table corals. Countless fish, wonderful variety
Batu Jendela
Difficult due to downdrafts but thanks to the
current plenty of bigger
fish – eagle rays and Napoleons.
Manubai
has a cave that you can swim
into from the sea, in which thousands of
sea swallows have built their nests. Storms have destroyed
the coral
here, still plenty to see. Difficult due to currents.
Muka Kampung
The mixture of warm and cold currents cause
bad visibility which is
compensated for by a variety of creatures. Good for makro.
Mahengetang
A must for at least a day's diving this is
an underwater volcano with
a mystic feel to it, one of the best dive sites in Indonesia
Pulau Kalama
Down to 20 metres the reef is damaged from
either storms or dynamite
fishing. Below however a perfect scenario.
Dugong Island
An island at the end of the world, visibility
50 metres. An amazing
dive site and there really are dugongs here.
Gunung Ikan Embang
Or "doctor fish mountain", which lives
up to its name. Fantastic
visibility and warm water.
Pulau Dane
Beautiful coral, difficult currents but well
worth the dive. Good for
makro
Lonely Rock
In the middle of the ocean a group of rocks
far from civilisation.
Virgin corals, swarms of various fish –
excellent diving, especially
drift diving
Liburan's Secret Place
Lembeh Strait has become a very popular diving
mecca in the past few
years, especially for makro freaks, but is now being marketed
out of
all proportion. Liburan has found an alternative, which is
very
similar to Lembeh and offers the same incredible underwater
experience. For makro photographers this is one of the best
sites
outside Lembeh Strait.
Ask this group about trip in Sangihe